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Saturday, February 22, 2014

Living Without, or, the Deconstructed Burger

      So, I am channelling my friend Laura tonight.  She has recently been instructed to follow a very restricted diet due to health concerns, and we have had several conversations around this issue.  This is not a new topic.   I touched upon this a while back, referencing gluten free food.
      What is becoming more and more evident to me is the number of people around me who have real medical needs to avoid certain foods.  Allergies to soy, ulcerative colitis, gluten intolerance, these are just a few.  There is the mysterious Retroperitoneal Fibrosis and its possible inflammatory roots, so I have adopted a (mostly) dairy, wheat and sweets free diet, a work in progress.  My friend Kit is following a gluten free diet as well, for health reasons.   I have a friend with thyroid issues thought to be auto-immune, who is talking about this.  And now Laura is instructed by her rheumatologist to adopt a very restricted diet, as part of a program to help her regain some semblance of health.  How restrictive?  Try no grains, no starches, no refined sugars, only certain fruits, no beans or legumes, no dairy, no seed oils.
     I know, right?  When I first saw that, I balked!  Then, my second response was to obsess about all the things that are NOT on the list.  Her husband is mourning the lack of bread.   No lentils, no bananas, no yogurt, no.....Wait.  That is the problem.  It's kind of like when my oven died a few years ago.  All I could think to make for dinner involved baking.   There are parts of the world where an oven in the home is not commonplace.  (Even in France, but that's because one can just pop down to the boulangerie!).
     When I first started talking to Laura about this diet, I kept asking her if this or that was allowed.  Mostly, there were a lot of no answers.  Then I started thinking about what she COULD have.  I flipped through my book of collected recipes.  In an effort to combat the down mood that she was in, I started listing the recipes that I had that she could eat.   Even I was amazed what qualified.
      Southwestern Beef Stew, Brussels Sprouts with Toasted Hazelnut Butter, Curried Squash Soup, Grilled Steak Salad, New American Borscht, Roasted Tomato Soup, West Coast Coleslaw, Asparagus Soup, Green Chili Pork, Braised Port with Pears and Chilis, Halibut with Garlic Mayonnaise Topping, Crawfish Pie without the pie, Beef and Broccoli Stir fry, Shrimp and Cabbage Salad.
      I have only scratched the surface, and only out of my own compendium (several of these are already on the blog, by the way).   All recipes can be shared.
      Part of the point here is that if you can let go of what is not on the restricted list, and keep your mind open, there are plenty of things that you are likely already eating, things that you already enjoy, which are perfectly acceptable, even under the rubric of a severely limited diet.
      Another point, one which I have been struggling with myself, and slowly grasping, is that sometimes food just needs to be food.  This is hard for me.  I am a particularly food obsessed person.  I like food, really good food.  I think about what my next meal is going to be in a detailed kind of way.  If I invite someone over for a meal, I spend a great deal of time perseverating about different menu items, and probably take far too much time in the preparation work, making an excessive effort.   Food does need to taste good.  It's great when it tastes great.  But it also needs to fill a person up, and it doesn't have to be excellent to do that.  It's OKAY to enjoy a very simple meal and to let go of the gourmet obsession, and just get a meal in.
      Finally, sometimes, it's worthwhile to take a lesson from our picky children.  How many times  does a child eat largely the same key ingredients as the adult, but in discrete items that don't touch on the plate.  It's frankly infuriating most of the time.  But there is something to be learned here as well.
      For instance, this method allows one to focus on what really makes a particular dish delectable.   I gave a lamb stew recipe to Laura at her request, but it has garbanzo beans in there.  Now, they add a  nice textural component to the dish, but I am willing to guess that it would be fine to omit them, and it would still be a tasty stew.
      Another case in point is the hamburger.  What is the key ingredient here?  The BEEF!  Make this ingredient excellent, and prepare it well, and let go of the things that one then associates with a burger in the typical American presentation.  So, I made burgers this evening:  I took ground beef from the famous grass fed organic beef, added a tablespoon of barbecue sauce, 3/4 tsp of kosher salt and 1/4 t of ground pepper.  I mixed it all up, fried it on my trusty grill pan to rare/medium rare, and served it with sliced tomatoes, an excellent barbecue sauce, carrot and celery sticks.  It was great!
     I would like to take a minute to mention the barbecue sauce.  My friend Mark got it from About Barbecues and Grilling by Derrick Riches and it's delicious, and easy to make.  If you are going to have stripped down ingredients, it is worth it to make them really good ones.
 
   

Deconstructed burger

Mark's Kansas City Rib Sauce
makes 2 c

1 c. Ketchup
1/4 c water
1/4 c vinegar
1/4 c. brown sugar
3 T olive oil
2 T paprika
1 T chili powder (I use chipotle)
2 cloves garlic
1 t cayenne (I reduce this)

Heat oil in sauce pan, add garlic and sauté.  Add  remaining ingredients, simmer about 15 minutes. 

And, Laura?  I know there isn't a bun here.  And why do we obsess about a bun?  It's just a vehicle to get the yummy burger to our mouths without a fork and knife!  Let it go folks, and enjoy the key ingredient!  

Monday, February 3, 2014

Birgit’s Big Super Bowl Challenge

Guest Written by: Jo Epping-Jordan

It’s Super Bowl time, and the city of Seattle has gone wild. Everyone has caught Seahawk Fever, and even Birgit is not immune.

“Could I come over to watch the game?” asked Birgit, AKA ‘She Without Cable’.  “I’ll bring food,” she added hopefully.

Of course she could.  But why not make things interesting?

So I issued Birgit her Big Super Bowl Challenge. To meet the challenge, she would need to:
  •       Provide one dish per quarter;
  •       Overall comprise a complete meal containing a drink and appetizer (1st quarter), salad (2nd quarter), main dish (3rd quarter), and dessert (4th quarter).

Extensive negotiations ensued. Did the food need to be prepared during the quarter, or in advance?  Could she recruit helpers? What were penalties if she missed her play clock?

The pressure mounted. As the Seahawks prepared for game day, Birgit planned her menu. She checked her ingredients, sharpened her knives, and mentally prepared herself for the challenge ahead.


1st Quarter: Off To A Great Start

It was the fastest score in Super Bowl history as Denver coughed up a safety just 12 seconds into the game. Mark (recruited by Birgit to make first quarter’s appetizer and drink) was equally fast in producing margaritas and guacamole, both two ways.


Margaritas with the Seahawks Snake

Margaritas, recipe from “I never measure” Mark

2 ounces Herradura Reposada tequila
2 ounces Patrón Citrónge orange liquer
1 ½ ounces freshly squeezed lime juice
Ice

Adjust to taste

Non-alcoholic margaritas, recipe from food.com

2 ounces simple syrup
1 ounce lime juice
1 ounce lemon juice
1 ounce orange juice
ice

Adjust to taste

Guacamole, Mark’s style

Amounts are highly approximate:

2 large mashed Hass avocadoes
2-3 Tbsp finely minced red onions
Juice of one lime, freshly squeezed
4 Tbsp finely diced ripe tomatoes,
4 Tbsp finely diced cilantro
Pinch of cayenne
Sea salt to taste

Guacamole, Bryce’s style

Amounts are highly approximate:

1 large mashed Hass avocado
1 Tbsp finely minced red onions,
Juice of ½ lime, freshly squeezed
Sea salt to taste
Black pepper to taste


Guacamole two ways, plus Birgit's salsa


2nd Quarter: Domination

During the 2nd quarter, Seattle continued to dominate Denver in every aspect of the game. For her part, Birgit was equally effective in the kitchen. This quarter’s dish was a green salad with lemon cumin vinaigrette, produced with the speed and precision of a seasoned chef.

Green salad with lemon cumin vinaigrette

Salad

Lettuce
Tomato
Red pepper
Red onion
Red cabbage, a small whiff for color interest

Vinaigrette

Juice of ½ lemon
¼ - ½ tsp of ground cumin
½ tsp sugar
¼ cup olive oil
salt to taste 


Mr Snake approves of Birgit's green salad with lemon cumin vinaigrette


3rd Quarter: It’s All About The Team

Seattle started the 3rd quarter by scoring once again within the first 12 seconds, bringing the score to 29-0. The Seahawks’ relentless march towards victory was distracting for all of us, and Birgit’s timing started to slip. By that point, though, no one really cared as we were all too busy doing fist bumps and victory dances around the TV.

Birgit’s 3rd quarter dish was tacos, which was apropos for the event.  Just like a champion football team, great tacos consist of contrasting ingredients that work together to form a unified whole.  A little of this intermingles with a little of that and voila!, the magic happens.

Birgit’s tacos

Beef filling

2 tsp oil
1 onion (about 1 cup) chopped finely
3 cloves garlic
2 Tbsp chile powder
1 tsp cumin
1 tsp coriander
½ tsp oregano
¼ tsp cayenne (optional; taste first)
salt
1 lb ground beef
½ cup tomato sauce
½ cup chicken broth
1-3 tsp brown sugar
2 tsp cider vinegar (optional)

Brown onions and garlic, add spices, then brown beef. Add tomato sauce and broth. Simmer 10-15 minutes, adjust seasonings.

Other taco ingredients

Tortillas
Black beans
Tomato
Red onion
Cilantro
Avocado
Queso Fresco (Mild Mexican cheese)


4th Quarter: The Final Touch(down)

The Broncos attempted an onside kick to start the 4th quarter but weren't able to recover; the Seahawks took advantage and scored yet another touchdown. Meanwhile, Birgit was preparing the final quarter’s dish: flan. 

Flan, recipe from Cooks Illustrated

Ingredients

1/2 cup (3 1/2 ounces) sugar
2 tablespoons water
2 large eggs
3 large egg yolks
1/4 teaspoon grated zest from 1 lemon
1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk
1 1/2 cups low-fat milk (see note)


Instructions

1. Adjust an oven rack to the middle position and heat the oven to 350 degrees. Place a kitchen towel in the bottom of a large baking dish or roasting pan and place a 9-inch cake pan in the center. Bring the sugar and water to a boil in a small saucepan, swirling the pan gently, until the sugar has dissolved, about 3 minutes. Reduce to a simmer and cook, gently swirling the pan occasionally, until the mixture has caramelized to a deep, dark mahogany color, 7 to 10 minutes. Carefully and slowly pour the caramel into the cake pan, being careful not to splash caramel onto yourself or outside of the cake pan, and cool slightly until hardened.

2. Bring a kettle or large saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, whisk the whole eggs and egg yolks together in a medium bowl until thoroughly combined, about 1 minute. Whisk in the zest, sweetened condensed milk, and low-fat milk. Pour the mixture into the cake pan, and gently place the roasting pan on the oven rack. Being careful not to splash any water inside the pan of custard, pour the boiling water into the roasting pan until the water reaches halfway up the side of the cake pan. Bake until the center of the custard is just barely set, is no longer sloshy, and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center registers 170 to 175 degrees, 30 to 40 minutes (start checking the temperature after 25 minutes).

3. Carefully remove the roasting pan from the oven and carefully transfer the cake pan to a wire rack and let cool to room temperature, about 2 hours. Wrap the cake pan with plastic wrap and refrigerate the custard until completely chilled, at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours.

4. Run a knife around the cake pan to loosen the custard. Invert a large serving platter over the top of the cake pan, and grasping both the cake pan and platter, gently flip the custard onto the platter, drizzling any extra caramel sauce over the top (some caramel will remain stuck in the pan). Serve immediately.


The final touch: flan



Summary

Final score: Seahawks 43, Broncos 8. The Seahawks routed the Broncos in every aspect of the game and exhibited their command of the sport.

Similarly, Birgit displayed her versatility and expertise in the kitchen by producing a varied and complete Super Bowl meal. Did she deliver on time? Not really. But did anyone care? Not at all. Was it great food? Absolutely. 

All in all, a resounding achievement for all!