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Thursday, September 5, 2013

Surreal Real Food, and the 2-for-1 special

     Interesting day today.  There is lots of weather, and a little empty nest syndrome, since school started yesterday.  Bryce is taking the bus across town for high school now, and I find myself excited for her.  Almost wish I were taking the bus too (but not quite).  The science teacher set off the fire alarm in class yesterday!
     Anyway, I have several mini-topics here, and they all fit together, sort of.  I made an excellent salad for lunch today, a bit of an impromptu event, but so beautiful, I wanted to include it and talk about tools.
     My mother was always a bit of a kitchen minimalist.  Why buy a new tool when you could make do with a more general item, like a knife, to a similar effect?  While I do agree, to a point, that an excess of gadgetry in the kitchen is silly, I do like a certain set of items that not only make life simpler and easier, but also more fun.
     A case in point is the mandoline.  I got my first from Katie's mother, who had this Japanese mandoline which, while semi-functional, also left me in fear for my digits.  Ah but the slices!   And then when I discovered the julienne function!  Oh, I had to acquire a better version.  Here comes the shameless promotion.  I now own an Oxo mandoline, and my kitchen world is one tiny bit more cluttered, but also more complete.  This item has rarely gotten to it's storage place this summer, it has been used so much.  Oxo has put in some excellent design features that reduce digit damage and enhance functionality.  All the attachments  (except one) are contained on the unit, so the storage is easy.  Love this gadget.
     And look what I have achieved!  This salad is surreal.  The carrot and beet are from the garden, and nearly electric in color.  That's a Chiogga beet, and julienned is a great way to display it's neon shades.  I have taken to eating beets raw this summer, and I highly recommend it.   I just peel and julienne, which saves all that time and cooking.   They are crunchy and sweet, and have a gentle earthy flavor.
This salad does not require a recipe, what you see is what you get:  lettuce, carrots and beets, toasted sunflower and pepitas, goat cheese and an orange vinaigrette (Thanks to Trader Joe's Orange Muscat vinegar, that, too, is easy).   Could I do this with a knife.  I guess.  But not as quickly, nor as beautifully, or uniformly.  I maintain that this is a case of better living through gadgetry.
     

     The other item IS a recipe, however.  I accompanied this electric salad with a leftover from the other night.  The inspiration comes from both the abundant zucchini supplies this time of year and a recipe that my friend Mark sent my way for a zucchini casserole.  
     I am not certain of the source of his recipe, but no matter, as I didn't use it.  That recipe called for bulgur, tomato paste and just didn't sound like what I wanted.  I was envisioning more of a riff on a corn pudding:  vegetal, but also cheesy and eggy, a little puffed.  (I confess, I was partly looking for a way to conceal a pile of zucchini in a 'don't-ask-what's-in-it' dish for dinner.)  I couldn't really find what I wanted, but managed to cobble together a pretty good version, amenable to all sorts of variations.  
     At it's base is a sauté of onion and shredded zucchini, which is then mixed with eggs, milk and cheese, and baked until golden and lovely.  I failed to photograph this, but it was an excellent side dish, with plenty of flavor.  I can envision adding corn, or herbs, or tomatoes, chili peppers, an so on.  

Zucchini Casserole
serves 4

1/2 c finely chopped onion
4 c shredded zucchini (or summer squash, or equivalent of other shredded or finely chopped veggies)
2 T butter
1/4-1/2 tsp salt
4 eggs
3T flour
1/2 c cottage cheese (I used low fat)  
1/4 c grated parmesan cheese
1/4 c crumbled Jalapeno queso fresco (optional, or use something similar)
1/2 c milk
1/4 tsp pepper

Saute onion and zucchini in butter until moisture is evaporated and zucchini is cooked down, about 10 min.  Season to taste with salt.  Allow to cool slightly.  
Meanwhile beat eggs in a bowl, sprinkle flour and whisk/beat until incorporated.  Add cheeses and milk, pepper.  
When veggies are cooled, dump into an lightly oiled casserole or gratin dish, and pour egg mixture on top.  Stir to mix, then bake 30 min at 350F, until puffed and golden.  

Sunday, September 1, 2013

Vaca Frita Our Way

     So, we are under pressure now.  The beef supply from our lovely locavore source is dwindling down, and we do the only rational thing:  Order more!  Except now we have desire and understanding motivating us, and decide that we should do it the the 'American' way.  Why have some if you can have more?
     Actually, it was a very democratic process, involving consensus, multiple solicitations of opinions (some of which I waited for, some I merrily assumed the answer to, ahem), information gathering and enfolding of more folks into the flock.  Very Seattle Process and we almost sang kumbaya at the end.  There is a whole beef coming this time, in a couple months, and the clock has begun to tick.
     You see, I still do have some beef in my freezer.  So it is time for it to go.  That's where Cook's Illustrated came to the rescue, with their most recent issue, and a recipe for Cuban Shredded Beef.  Think pulled pork, but with beef.  The flavorings are more Cuban (duh) and less south of the Mason-Dixon Line.  But conceptually that is where we are going here.
     Not willing to make a mess of this for myself, I do the other only rational thing:  bamboozle others to join me on this quest.  To wit:  my friends Jo and Mark offered themselves up, and a meal was in the making.  They even graciously offered up their kitchen!  Or, at least they were too polite to object.
     We started with a chuck roast, and braised it nearly 2 hours, thereafter, it was pounded flat, sautéed with onions, garlic and other seasonings.  Then we did a bastardization of a taco bar goes to Cuba:  black beans, avocado, queso fresco from the farmer's market, lovely tomatoes, salsa, peppers and cilantro.  All of it was excellent.
     Our only complaint?  Even though I find CI to be exceptionally well tested and properly seasoned, the beef was too salty.  Oh, and not enough cumin for my taste.  It worked out well with the other ingredients, as they balanced things out well enough.  But I will provide our adapted version below, to avoid future complications.
 Plate of accoutrements
Pounded Beef
 Bear with me here folks, I know it doesn't look like much but it translates well with the other food


Vaca Frita, a la Mark and Birgit
adapted from Cook's Illustrated Cuban Shredded Beef

serves 4-6


2lbs beef chuck, fat trimmed and cut into 1 1/2" cubes
1/2 tsp salt
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp vegetable oil
1/2 tsp ground cumin
2T orange juice (maybe more)
1 1/2 tsp grated lime zest, plust 1 T juice, plus lime wedges for serving
1 onion, halved and thinly sliced
2T dry sherry

1.  Bring beef, 2c. water and salt to a boil in a dutch oven or other sturdy pot, reduce to low, cover and gently simmer 1hr 45min, checking occasionally to make sure the bottom third of the beef is submerged. 
2.  Combine garlic, oil and cumin a bowl, set aside.  Combine orange and lime zest and juice in another bowl, set aside.  
3.  When beef is tender, remove lid, increase heat and simmer until the water is evaporated, 3-8 min.  Remove beef to a rimmed baking sheet, (reserve fat from skillet) pound flat into 1/8" pieces, with skillet or meat pounder.  
4.  Heat oil in pan, add onion and sauté until golden, add sherry, 1/4c. water to deglaze and cook until it evaporates.  Transfer to a bowl, set aside.  Add reserved fat, beef and cook until golden brown and crusty (we had trouble with this, but it was still good).  Push beef to the sides, add garlic to the center and cook, then add juice mixture and onion and toss to combine.  

5.  Serve with a Cuban taco bar of black beans, tortillas, queso fresco, avocados, tomatoes, peppers and cilantro.  Enjoy!